Kegging Your Beer

For most of us, the thought of kegged beer reminds us of those great parties we attended too many years ago, where the beer flowed freely until that dreaded hiss would suddenly signal the end of the supply; the next morning we would pay the price as our heads let us know we should have quit sooner...
But to the home brewer, kegged beer means ending the drudgery of countless hours stripping labels off scores of used bottles, brushing and washing them, then filling  and capping them... one by one... wishing there was an easier way...

Enter the "Corny" keg- that wonderful (but slightly outdated) container that, for years, held the syrups for millions upon millions of gallons of soda which would be served in most every soda fountain or eatery.
Of course technology never stops, and so it is with the soda industry; Those stainless steel kegs of yesterday are now being replaced with  the "Bag in a Box" setups of today-  resulting in a glorious benefit for the home brewer, as these containers make the perfect setup for serving our home brewed beer. Their use is in rapid decline here in the U.S, though, and  many thousands of these kegs are being shipped to other countries for use there. Supplies will eventually become short, but for now they are readily available.

There are two major manufacturers of soda kegs: Firestone and Cornelius. Parts for each are not always interchangeable, and one needs to know the model type when ordering replacements. They come in 3, 5, and 10 gallon sizes, 5 being the most common.
Although they can be purchased new, most homebrew shops carry used, reconditioned ones that have been pressure tested, cleaned, and any worn parts replaced. However, it's always best to replace the rubber o-rings when purchasing any used keg, as they tend to hold the flavor of whatever syrup they were used for. It's highly concentrated, and can affect the beer's flavor quite easily.
 

Kegging VS. Bottling
Kegging offers some real benefits over bottling. One of the most obvious is the amount of labor involved.
For a typical 5 gallon batch to be bottled, a person might spend several hours stripping labels off of 50 or 60 used bottles to save the added expense of purchasing new ones. Those bottles must then be scrubbed both internally and externally, as well as sterilized. Once they are filled, each one needs to be capped and placed into carriers so they can be moved  to the spot where the beer will be aged.
 Time is another factor- the bottling process, even when using brand new  bottles, usually takes several hours at best- each one must be treated with the utmost care to ensure a non-infected serving of beer.  Kegging that same batch can be accomplished in about 30 minutes or less, start to finish!
 Expense is also a factor to consider. While putting together a kegging system may seem expensive in the beginning (and yes, it is!), in the end, you'll see that cost eventually recovered in many ways:  Bottle caps are non-reusable, and must be replaced for each batch, as are any bottles that are chipped, broken,  or not returned to you after use; There's no need for priming sugar for kegging, unless you choose to use it.
 Hmm, not a lot to save on- but at least they  do help offset the cost of C02 refills, which you don't need very often anyway. ( A five pound tank will push several hundred gallons of beer, and will most likely last the average home brewer about two years or more!)

As with any system, there are disadvantages, too. When it comes to kegging, foremost is the startup cost
of setting up a system; On the other hand, however, you'll be purchasing industrial- quality items that are made to last, and maintenance is minimal for most of them.
 

So, what's a basic setup consist of, anyway?  Here's what the average "Homebrew Dispensing System" usually comes with::
 A KEG
Normally a five gallon Pepsi keg, with pushlock fittings (more on this later)

 A C02 TANK
A 5# tank is standard; This  is usually shipped empty, and you'll need to find a place
 you can get it filled.  Often, suppliers simply take your new tank in trade, and hand you another one that's been pre-filled; You may have to make arrangements to get your own tank filled and returned to you if you feel the need, or just always ask for a clean-looking tank when you refill.  Other sizes available are 2.5# and 10# tanks; The 2.5# is convenient, but may cost more per pound to fill, and will require more frequent refills.  10# tanks are too big to transport easily, but are great for stationary setups such as a bar or fridge tap system.

Keg Fittings
Kegs are fit with "IN" and "OUT" connectors which are required to connect the hoses to the tank; One supplies the gas (IN), and the other feeds the beer to the faucet (OUT); As there are two basic styles ("Coke" and "Pepsi"), the connectors must match the keg type. If you are buying a complete kit, this will be done when the kit is being put together; If you built your own setup, it's something you'll have to specify when ordering  parts.   (See "Anatomy of a Keg" for more details)

Hoses and Faucet
 The keg must be fixed with a set of hoses to bring the C02 in, as well as the beer out to a serving faucet; There's usually about a 4' hose for the gas, and about 3' of hose for the beer line, as well as a "picnic faucet"- a simple plastic squeeze faucet that allows the keg to be served anywhere.  Some kits come with a more expensive tap setup, the same as the ones you see in bars and restaurants; This type of setup costs more, and is used for permanent mounting, usually in a refrigerator that will house the keg.

Regulator/ Gauges
Attached to the C02 tank, the regulator and gauges are used to control and monitor the pressure of the gas being used. "Single gauge" regulators have one gauge only, and show the gas pressure as it exits the tank. "Double gauge" regulators are actually the same regulator in most cases, fit with an extra gauge to monitor the amount of gas left in the tank.  If you start with a single gauge, you can usually add the second gauge at a later time, usually for about $10.
 
 

Anatomy of a Keg Setup

Keeping in mind that actual model types may vary, these are the basic parts of a keg and their functions; All of them are replaceable as needed; Be certain of the brand and style of your keg when ordering parts for it.

The keg itself is made up of the following:  The main tank, a closure lid, a pressure relief valve, rubber closure gasket, a pair of screw-on connectors for the lines, a long dipstick tube, short gas-in tube, and several o-rings to seal each connector. Also, there are two little valve assemblies that fit inside the connectors.

The regulator can be a single or double gauge setup, with either one or both gauges installed. Connected to the "out" side of the regulator is a shutoff with a check valve, so the flow will only move OUT of the tank, not back in through the regulator.  (if you ever order those little shutoffs to build your own system, remember to ask for the style with the check valve, it's only a little more expensive, and well worth having)

C02 tanks come in a variety of sizes. 2.5 or 5# tanks are fine for most situations, the 5# probably being the best value as it will keep refills to a minimum. The regulator is simply screwed to the tank, and you're ready to carbonate or serve the beer.

What do I use it all for?
What to do with all this fancy equipment? That depends on your goal. One option is to set up a permanent tap system, running your keg through a refrigerator wall, complete with a nice stainless steel tap right in the door. Or you could set up a tower tap or some other type of bar system where your beer is always served from the same spot. This is great for people that have a home, and can leave the set up installed for good.  A few extra parts make it easily detachable, so you can always make it portable.
 Portability is also nice, you can impress people with your best brew no matter where they are. The equipment is a bit bulky however, so don't forget to allow for it in the trunk! Of course your beer won't be very happy once you toss it around, and it certainly won't be clear until it settles down after moving it. You may want to reconsider, and just fill a few jugs with some beer fresh from the tap. An added advantage to that: you won't have to baby-sit your expensive equipment, worrying about some Mo-Ron knocking it over and smashing the regulator!
Using a "picnic faucet" setup, you can keep your setup mobile, simply putting the tanks in a handy spot (usually it's best in a safe corner somewhere, where it won't get tripped over), and serve at will.

You can also use your setup for other neat stuff, like purging your fermenters with C02 before racking into them, force carbonating your beer,  counter-pressure bottle filling your bottles, and even driving pumps designed for use with your tank.
 

Things to Consider
There are many factors to consider for each use with a C02 setup. Some of it can get pretty complicated, but fortunately, most situations can be dealt with pretty smoothly with a little understanding and experience.
Some basic variables, such as the length of your run (the hose length you're pushing the beer through), the pressure in the tank, the temperature of the beer, and height you are pushing it will each have an effect.  But don't let that scare you- with a bit of practice, it's easy to hook up and have clear beer running out the other end, with just the amount of head you desire.
 Normally 3/16 or 1/4" tubing is used for the beer line; Each size will demand a different pressure to work properly. The length of your tubing will affect foaming, also; Too short a run will tend to impart excessive foam; Too long, and you won't be able to force the beer down the line.  Anywhere between a minimum of 36" long, up to about 8', and there's usually not any problem; this allows most situations to be dealt with quite easily.  Very long runs sometimes need additional equipment to make them work, but these are usually only set up in brew pub type settings, where the beer might be served from the cellar up to the dining area above.

Build it your way!  There are enough parts available to build pretty much any type of system you want, be it a single tap or a group of ten taps, all fired off of one main tank- the possibilities are endless!
For example, my system consists of one tank feeding 3 taps built into a standup bar; Each keg is stored in a refrigerator next to the bar, the lines running through the side wall.  Each tap can be fed more C02 as needed, independent of the other two.  With just a couple quick changes, the tanks can be brought anywhere I desire, along with the tank and regulator.
 Fittings for most any connection can be had, but it does get a bit expensive; You may want to start with a simple picnic setup first, and add parts as you go along. Over time you'll find what method you prefer, so you don't have to spend a fortune on equipment you don't end up using.

Five gallon kegs are too big to fit in your food fridge, unless of course you don't eat much.  A 3 gallon keg fits small areas better, but remember, they should all be able to remain standing upright to work properly.
Got a second fridge? It's the perfect cure. You can even purchase a permanent-mount tap to install right through the door, and store everything inside the fridge. This makes a neat appearance, and works quite well.
If you plan to build one, be sure to consult with a knowledgeable supplier; There are many sizes to choose from, and you'll need to know the exact thickness of the door you'll be mounting the tap to, so you can order the proper shank length.  You can get them to fit any wall thickness from a mere 3/8" to 12".

The pull handles and serving faucet  are available in polished brass, which looks nice when new, but I don't recommend using them- they tarnish quickly, resulting in a poor-looking setup. Polished chrome ones offer a lifetime of hassle-free use, looking new for many years.
 
Remember, each piece must be chosen individually, much like choosing options on a new car- be sure you deal with someone who has experience setting up kegging equipment, or you could spend a ton of money and not have what you need to do it right.  Make a plan of exactly what you to do, and they can help you pick out the right fittings, as you choose from the various options along the way.

So, you've got everything you need, and wonder what to do with it- don't feel stupid, and don't be afraid! This is a very exciting time! Grab one of the last BOTTLED homebrews you'll see for a while, and celebrate the new beginning!
 Assuming you just received your equipment from a reputable dealer of some sort, all you need to do now is sterilize the keg, hook up your hoses (if the dealer hasn't already walked you through that part, which they should have) and keg your first batch.   Hah- you wish it was that simple!    ...Ok, so it really is, I just wanted to scare ya for a minute!
 Just in case you didn't get instructions on setting up, here's what to do:

1. Inspect everything you got, making sure it's what you ordered, and that everything is there. Remember, you want to be using the screw-on type connectors, not the barb type here:
2. Assemble the gas connector.   Take a length of hose, about 3' long, and slip a hose clamp over the end; Next, insert one of the swivel fitting barbs onto the tubing, with the swivel nut already slipped over the barb end. (A little play in the end between the sleeve and nut is ok, as this will become tight when you snug up the fitting to the connector later on. ) pushing the fitting into the tubing may prove to be rather difficult; Soaking the end of the hose in very hot water for a minute or two will help stretch the tubing over the barb. Of course you could slip that clamp over the OTHER end of the tubing afterward, but the idea is to get into the habit of remembering to add the clamp each time before you add a terminal (end) fitting- that way, you won't have to chop the end off when you forget next time! The sooner you develop this habit, the sooner it will become routine, and soon you won't even be thinking about this sort of thing- all part of being a more efficient brewer!   Next take the gas connector and screw one end of the hose to it; the other end will be forced directly onto the little shutoff valve on your C02 tank. Again, pushing it on won't be easy, but patience and a lot of elbow grease will prevail.  (did you remember to add the second hose clamp before you pushed it on? If not, you get to do it all over again- now you see why that habit is so good to get into right away!)   Once that hose is finished, it's time to rig up a second one for the beer line. If you are using the picnic faucet setup, simply make a piece of tubing about 3' long, and add a swivel fitting to one end; To the other, push on and clamp the plastic faucet assembly.  Connect the swivel fitting end to your "LIQUID" connector, and tighten it.  Tighten up the clamps,  and your lines are ready to go.  All that's left is to connect your gas line's disconnect to the IN side on the tank,  and the liquid disconnect to the "OUT" side of the tank . If you did this right, you'll now have your C02 tank running from the regulator to the "IN" side of your keg, and the "OUT side will be connected to your beer faucet.

To test the setup, you first need to check for leaks. Checking for leaks is the single most important thing you can do to ensure success when kegging- you can quickly drain a full tank and lose your ability to serve your beer until you refill, from even the slightest leak in your system. For that very reason, I highly recommend you turn on the gas ONLY when you are actively serving beer, or at least performing some function such as priming or pressurizing a batch.  Leaving your tank valve opened and  your shutoff open is almost certain to invite disaster in the form of a premature empty tank!  A little bit of soapy water is a quick and easy check for leaks, although most leaks are readily audible, too.

To Prime a Batch
Force carbonating a batch of beer is both easy and very effective- you won't have to wait for the priming sugar to work, OR for it to settle and clarify- it won't be there! Instead, here's what to do:
After filling your keg (be sure to leave at least about 3" of head space), simply crank up the regulator pressure to about 35-40 psi, and apply it to the keg until there is no more hissing.  Shut off the gas, and disconnect the gas line. Vigorously shake the keg for about a minute or two, then store it in the keg fridge, as colder temps force more C02 into the beer more quickly.  In a day or so there should be enough carbonation forced into the beer that you can release the excess pressure by pulling on the relief valve ring until most of the excess gas blows off. There should be enough pressure left to move some beer right away; If not, set the regulator to about 5 psi, and open the petcock- your beer should begin to flow with little or no foam.  If there is foaming, release the pressure, then wait a while and check it again, this means the pressure was a bit high when you force carbonated the beer.  Remember that variations in the keg temperature will affect the flow, so you may have to experiment a bit; Soon you'll get the hang of it though, and like remembering to add the clamps before the last fitting, it'll become second nature.

To Purge a container
 Here's a quick lesson in how versatile those screw fittings are compared to the barbed ones- next time you're racking a batch to secondary, or filling that next keg, you can purge the oxygen from the container first, to protect it from oxidation.  Here's how:
 First, reduce the output pressure to about 2-3 psi on the regulator. Then, unscrew the quick disconnect from the end of your gas line.  Now you can simply drop the end of the line into the container, and open the tank valve slowly to replace whatever air is in the container with pure C02- since the C02 is heavier than oxygen, it will sink to the bottom of the container, pushing the oxygen out until it is fully replaced. Voila- less chance of spoiled beer!    When you are done, just replace your disconnect, and you're back in business, and less likely to lose your tank  of gas to the open air.

To Serve Your Beer

Serving the beer once  carbonated is quite simple, although there may be a couple minor adjustments required to balance the system.  Now it's simply a matter of keeping enough carbonation in the beer, as well as adding just enough to force it down the beer line. Too much pressure will cause foaming; too little will eventually rob the beer of carbonation as the gas escapes into the emptying tank and drops in concentration.  Although it sounds difficult, it's actually pretty easy- simply keeping the C02 tank set for about 5-7 psi seems to work fine in most cases. As the beer is served, keep an eye on the flow- once it begins to slow down, just give it a quick shot of gas, and everything balances out nicely.  In most cases that's all there is to it, until the keg is empty.    Handy hint:  Once the keg is empty- Don't Touch!
 Leave it until you're ready to fill it with the next batch, and all you'll have to do is a quick and easy cleaning- all that's in there is a little sediment from the last batch,  a bit of liquid that didn't make it up the tube, and NO AIR- just C02!  Therefore, there's no rancid, spoiled beer  full of bacteria, like you'd find in bottles that hung around and got nasty- one more great reason to keg!  Of course it's good to clean the keg within a reasonable amount of time, but having 12 of them, I've found that it's not a problem leaving each one until I need it, rotating them about once every couple of months once empty.
 

 Back to Coke vs Pepsi...

 (My apology for jumping around here- there's just so much that I want to say, and so little brain left to keep it all organized!  Actually, as this is going to become a very long article before I finish, so each segment is being written as I get the chance- Right now, I'm testing a few pints of my latest batch, while I try to jot down some other observations...)
 
 Much like the war between the soda itself, so has raged the battle for equipment, too- when you decide to set up a kegging system, you'll need to make a very basic (but important) decision: Coke or Pepsi?  The soft drink of choice doesn't have to match the keg of choice- what you are actually choosing is whether to use the "pin-lock" (Coke) or "push-lock" (Pepsi) system.  This refers to the type of disconnect that will be used to attach your hoses to each keg.
 Coke systems utilize a bayonet- type mount. Each disconnect has slotted portions which fit past protruding pins that emerge from the perimeter of the keg's fitting; The disconnect is simply pushed downward and rotated over these pins and then released,  the way those bulbs for a car's directionals work.  A set of either 2  (the gas disconnect) or 3 barbs ( the liquid disconnect)  is used to prevent mixing of the gas and liquid lines when connecting the fittings to the keg.
 Pepsi kegs employ a push-on fitting that slides as it is forced on, revealing a set of ball bearings which grip the indents on the keg fitting.  By simply lifting the outer flange while lifting on this style they can be easily removed from the connector.   To keep the gas line from being accidentally connected to the liquid line, there is a slight difference in the diameters of the inside of each type of disconnect, as well as color coding; Unfortunately, the actual difference in the diameter is only 0.0156, allowing the smaller one to accidentally be pushed onto the larger style fitting. These fittings can be ordered specifically to be the larger (.265 diameter) size when ordering, which will eliminate that potential problem.  In fact, I simply ordered a set of ALL disconnects and fittings that size, therefore eliminating the problem- now I can just read the "IN" and "OUT" markings on the kegs when I connect a line, with no worry about mixing connectors or disconnects- a simple cure that's saved a lot of grief ever since! I did however, receive one disconnect that was the wrong size one time, and it can be a real pain if you push the smaller disconnect onto a large connector. Nothing a screwdriver and a bit of prying won't take care of, but the disconnect won't look very good when you're done!  All in all though, there don't seem to be any real advantages to make one system that much better than the other; Pepsi ones are the style that are normally sold by most homebrew shops, and they are more readily available; Coke one work nice, but parts are much more expensive to replace when needed, as far as the connectors go. Disconnects for each run the same price in most cases, but the wholesale price for a keg connector is almost 5 times for a Coke fitting as a Pepsi one!  Those little pins are expensive additions to the fitting, and as usual, the cost is passed on to the consumer. 

The Hybrid System
 So, what if you have a Coke setup, and your buddy's got Pepsi (or vice versa)?  Trading samples is NOT a problem- you'll just need to invest a few bucks into your fitting inventory, and the problem is solved! Keep in mind: you can pretty much do ANYTHING you want with your system- the parts are available. The secret here is doing it as cheaply as possible, which usually means the less fittings, the better.  Many of the fittings you'll need can be found at any well-stocked hardware store; However,  some of them will need to be ordered from a beverage supply outfit.  A knowledgeable homebrew supplier should be able to procure any parts you need to put together most any combination you desire.  When you set up  the parts to serve beer from either a Coke OR Pepsi system, you have what's known as a hybrid system. This is  one more reason the screw-thread disconnects come in handy. You can simply unscrew any disconnect at any time, and replace the current fitting with the one you want. (It's also darn handy when it's time to clean your lines!) Many shops will offer you the type of disconnect that comes with a barbed end; Insist that they give you the screw-on style, even if you've got to wait for them to order it. Believe me, you'll be glad you did.

 Using the fittings required, you can set up a bank of hoses that can feed both gas in and beer out, ready to connect to either a Coke or Pepsi keg, within seconds. Planning is the key: Know what you want to do, and then get the fittings required. It's not hard as long as you think about it first. Draw a simple sketch of what you have, along with the type of connector that's at the end of each piece; Better yet, bring the fittings right to the person who's going to order what you need to add to it- this way, there's less chance of waiting several days for a special order, only to find that you waited for the wrong parts. It can be both very frustrating AND expensive.
 
 A quick note on putting fittings together:  The disconnects themselves are make of plastic, with metal inserts (the threaded portion) molded in; This makes for a sure seal when connecting the disconnect to the swivel fittings you'll be clamping to the hose ends; However, whenever you connect OTHER fittings, you'll be connecting metal to metal- a likely candidate for a leaky joint!  Be sure to purchase several of the small nylon washers made just for this purpose, and insert them into the fitting end whenever you join two metal connectors; This will help insure a good seal, avoiding a tankful of lost C02.
 

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